CLOS SAINT DENIS
2018 Grand Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| Other | Practising Organic |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
| Village | Morey Saint Denis |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13.5% |
| Vineyard | Clos Saint Denis |
Clos Saint Denis is now 6.5 hectares, but when it was originally made a Grand Cru it was only 3.5 - some neighbouring premers crus were incorporated. This parcel of 65 year old vines is in the original part. Lots of millerandage. Very dark expression; really sweet black fruit concentration, total purity - blackberry coulis, but firm, the mineral giving a lively brightness. All in length and elegance. L&S (Nov 2019)
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The 2018 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has quite an intense bouquet with red berry fruit, touches of blackcurrant, pain d'épice and sous-bois. This seems to grow and deepen in the glass, developing some unnecessary headiness and then, as if skulking from out of a darkened corner, noticeable and sadly compromising Brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with quite thick and dense tannins. Backward and rather surly, this is a serious Clos Saint-Denis, more dark than light, with some dryness and austerity on the finish. Like reading Dostoevsky when you just want a simple page-turner. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting. Drinking range: 2028 - 2048 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Nov 2022)
The 2018 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru offers broody dark berry fruit on the nose laced with cedar and undergrowth. The palate has a peppery opening, a fine bead of acidity, quite lively although the finish would benefit from a little more finesse. Maybe I was expecting a little more? Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2020)
“Before 1933 it was 3.3 hectares and then several 1er cru were incorporated. this is in the heart of the old part. Some is 65 year old vines and lots millerandage.” Sophisticated and pure with lovely intensity. It’s mineral and focused. Fine tannins. Lovely length. Drinking range: 2026 - 2035 Rating: 95-96 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2019)
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
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RELATED PRODUCTS
2015 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Les Chenevery Domaine Lignier-Michelot
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Deep colour, very rich, intense fruit and savour, yet still really quite easy, flowing, graceful and classy. Really rather fabulous fruit expression, defined red and black flavours playing off each other and giving real...(read more)
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2014 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Lignier-Michelot
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Colour is very dark. Nose of black fruit, palate mineral, lifted, airy, floating. One would never tire of this - it seems to be bottled energy and light. A sort of blackberry jelly fruit on the finish which is still dry...(read more)
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