|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Fresh and mineral, taut and pure on black fruit and mineral. Seems slightly on the back foot, but Yves is unconcerned - he is only half-way through the élevage, unlike so many others who are preparing their wines for bottling at this stage. The elements are all here. Slowly, slowly. Drinking range: 2030 - 2042 L&S (Oct 2020)
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Firm reduction renders an evaluation of the nose impossible at present. Otherwise there is good intensity to the voluminous and expansive flavors that display fine power on the youthfully austere finish that flirts with rusticity but doesn’t quite cross over into it. Note that this is exceptionally firm and a wine that is going to require extended keeping to shed its carapace of tannins. Drinking range: 2036 - Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2021)
Domaine de Courcel
One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.
The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.
The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.
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