Eating perfectly cooked grouse with a judiciously selected bottle or two is one of the great聽gastronomic delights. But what to pair with (arguably) Britain’s most delicious game bird?
Good, old red Burgundy
‘The traditional answer to the question of what to drink with grouse is ‘a bottle of good, old red burgundy.’ This reminds me of the friend who nervously asked for advice on what to wear to a smart ball in Scotland and was told ‘a long dress and your good jewels.’ Devastating news for anyone who has failed to either inherit any rocks or to marry a man on a diamonds and rubies income.‘
Victoria Moore,聽The Wine Dine Dictionary, London, Granta, 2017
In clubland, the spiritual home of grouse, it would probably be considered sacrilege to pull the cork on anything other than聽‘good, old red Burgundy.’ Sadly, few of us have the space or the perspective to keep cases for years until they reach their grouse-matching peak. Thankfully L&S has done all the hard work for you!
We have a host of juicy, aromatic Burgundies on offer, from the dangerously quaffable聽2020 Bourgogne from Domaine Fran莽ois Raquillet, to the classy purity of Thibault Liger-Belair’s聽2019 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Les Grands Chaillots聽or聽Thierry Mortet’s 2017 Gevrey Chambertain. If you’re feeling really decadent, have a look at the ‘gourmand’聽2016 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos du Verger Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot聽or bask in reflected聽Victorian splendour with this聽2014 VOSNE ROMAN脡E Champs Perdrix Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot.
Beyond Burgundy
The way grouse is being cooked is also changing.聽No longer is it just served as a whole roast bird, complete with a traditional cro没te of聽saut茅ed liver.聽London’s hippest chefs are increasingly serving grouse pink (or even ‘sous-vide’), so you’re now likely to encounter it as an expertly butchered centerpiece in a glitzy salad or impeccably dressed in an eye-catching main. Burgundy still works but this style of cooking opens up grouse to a much wider range of wine pairing options.聽
If you are serving your grouse pink, you may want some more ‘juice’ than old, red Burgundy affords. Consider something from the new world like 2019 PINOT NOIR ‘1899 Cuv茅e’ Willamette Valley Illahe Vineyards聽or Bodega Chacra’s 2019 ‘Chacra 55’. Both remain elegant and restrained but they still carry their own signature expressions of new world juiciness and vivacity.
If the meat has been very well hung or served with a rich sauce, it might be wise to avoid Pinot Noir altogether and open something that’s a more natural foil for ‘wilder’ flavours. Old Bandol or something mature from the Northern Rh么ne would be perfect but is sadly all too rare. Don’t be afraid of Nebbiolo in a lighter style, especially if it has some soothing bottle age. Something like the聽2020 Langhe Nebbiolo from Sottimano or the聽2017 ‘Mimmo’ Le Piane聽would be perfect.
Finally, it’s still August, so there will be plenty of time left in the summer for al fresco dining. Barbecued grouse is delicious but definitely needs something a little more robust to take on the smokey, gamey flavour. Try something like a cool (~15C) bottle of聽2018 Morellino di Scansano ‘Heba’ from Fattoria di Magliano聽or the 2019 ‘Peloro Rosso’ from Le Casematte.
Order any of these recommendations via the link below or pop in and grab a bottle from one of our London shops.
