Wines in the Press – Autumn 2019

by Eve-Marie Letondel

A selection of our latest mentions in the UK press.

This is a great opportunity to take advantage of our 12 bottle mixed case discount – our ‘case price’ is marked in red.

DECEMBER

The Guardian, Champagne and beyond: sparkling wine for New Year鈥檚 Eve, David Williams 29/12/2019:


GONET-M脡DEVILLE Blanc de Noirs Brut 1er Cru NV
拢40.95 | 拢37.50
Review: ‘Or you could go for one of the many grower-producers who have emerged in the past 20 years to shake up the grandes marques, such as the quite thrilling (and pound for pound, in the Champagne context, remarkable value) blancs de noir from Gonet-M茅deville, with its laser-guided richness and lipsmacking, saline finish.’

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The Wine Gang, December Report, The Wine Gang:

WISTON ESTATE 2011 Blanc de Blancs Brut
2011 WISTON ESTATE Blanc de Blancs Brut
拢42.50 | 拢39.95
Review: ‘Ready to drink now, this 2011 Blanc de Blancs crafted by winemaker Dermot Sugrue, is showing a beautiful if fast development with ripe orchard fruit and pastry aromas. The palate is rich, broad and creamy: this is certainly not the fizz you want as an aperitif, rather requiring some rich nourishment to support its weight. Lingering spicy finish with hints of candied ginger. Pairs nicely with: Medium-cured cheeses, cr猫me br没l茅e, coquilles St-Jacques.’

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2015 Gusbourne ros茅
2015 GUSBOURNE Ros茅 Brut English Sparkling Wine
拢48.95 | 拢43.95
Review: (93 points)‘A beautiful food-friendly fizz, with a very well integrated (and very English) acidity and a broad mid-palate supported by a surprising flavour complexity. There鈥檚 a pleasing crunchiness and a lingering spiciness to this wine that makes a pleasure to drink now but also promises a good future. Pairs nicely with: Mezze, baked camembert, roasted salmon.’

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The Telegraph, The best red wines for Christmas 2019 鈥 our expert guide, Victoria Moore 18/12/2019:

2017 Gigondas Bouissiere
2017 GIGONDAS Domaine la Bou茂ssi猫re
拢27.95 | 拢24.95
Review: ‘The warm generosity of grenache (which makes up 70 per cent of this southern Rh么ne red) has a festive air. It鈥檚 aged in foudres (large wooden vats) and there鈥檚 a thick cloud of red-berried perfume and an undertow of pumice and dried thyme.鈥

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2013 Monteti
2013 MONTETI Tenuta Monteti
SOLD OUT (2014 vintage available instead)
Review: 鈥楾enuta Monteti is situated in the Maremma, close to the Tuscan coast. This, its flagship wine, is an unusual blend based on petit verdot with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Think Bordeaux meets Italy 鈥 there鈥檚 structure and some maturity 鈥 polished dark fruit, tobacco, furniture polish, cured meat and red cherries.鈥

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The Telegraph, The best champagne and sparkling wine for Christmas 2019, Victoria Moore 18/12/2019:

Barnault Grande Reserve Brut Bouzy
BARNAUT Grande R茅serve Brut Grand Cru Bouzy NV
拢26.95 | 拢25.95 – On offer
Review: ‘Like Bollinger, this is made with around two thirds pinot noir, which gives it a firm structure and undertones of spice, toast and cherry compote. A serious champagne with a sappy uplift 鈥 at a bargain price.鈥

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The Telegraph, What the wine connoisseurs want for Christmas 鈥 from oaky reds to vintage champagne , Victoria Moore 14/12/2019:

Brut Tradition Egly Ouriet
NV EGLY-OURIET Tradition Brut Grand Cru Ambonnay Champagne
拢64.95 | 拢60.95

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Latitude Larmandier Bernier
NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER ‘Latitude’ Extra Brut 1er Cru
拢34.50 | 拢32.50
Review: 鈥楢n exhilaratingly dry and focused blanc de blancs from a top grower in Champagne.鈥

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Money Week,The top festive tipples, Matthew Jukes 13/12/2019:

2013-MOREY-SAINT-DENIS-Vieilles-Vignes-Domaine-Lignier-Michelot
2013 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes Domaine Lignier-Michelot
拢42.95 | 拢38.75
Review: ‘I first met Virgile Lignier back in the mid-1990s and I used to ship pallets of his stunning Burgundies back to London for my wine list at Bibendum Restaurant. Time has moved on and I do not see these wines as much as I would like, but I always keep an eye out as I love the lush fruit and stunning accuracy of his wines. With six years under its belt, this old vine Morey, which comes from three parcels in the village, is drinking perfectly. There is a fair slice of whole bunch fruit here and this adds spice and aromatic detail This is my pick of all red wines this year for your turkey feast.鈥

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Spectator Life,Six cheese and wine pairings for Christmas,

Henry Jeffreys

10/12/2019:

2011 Tokaji Asz煤
2011 TOKAJI ASZ脷 5 PUTTONYOS Diszn贸k艖
拢30.95 | 拢28.75
Review: ‘The 2011 Diszn贸k艖 Tokaji Asz煤 5 Puttonyos is simply superb with its pineapple and bitter marmalade flavours, and refreshing tang. 鈥

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The Telegraph,The best white wines to buy for Christmas 2019, as recommended by The Telegraph experts, Victoria Moore, Susy Atkins & Hamish Anderson 09/12/2019:

2017 Kumeu Village
2017 KUMEU ‘VILLAGE’Chardonnay Kumeu River
拢12.50 | 拢11.50
Review: ‘The diffusion line from the revered Kumeu River on New Zealand鈥檚 North Island is just as impressive as its more expensive siblings. It has a luminosity that should please burgundy fans. VM鈥

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2017 G de Guiraud
2017 LE G DE GUIRAUD Bordeaux Blanc Ch芒teau Guiraud
拢17.95 | 拢16.75
Review: ‘Well, that鈥檚 smoked salmon sorted. A sophisticated beauty. It鈥檚 50-50 s茅millon-sauvignon blanc, and aged in old barrels on the lees for texture. Think roasted white grapefruit with distant glimmers of pine and tarragon. VM’

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2018 Lirac White La Reine des Bois
2018 LIRAC Cuv茅e de la Reine des Bois Blanc Domaine de la Mordor茅e
拢27.75 | 拢24.75
Review: ‘Well, that鈥檚 smoked salmon sorted. A sophisticated beauty. It鈥檚 50-50 s茅millon-sauvignon blanc, and aged in old barrels on the lees for texture. Think roasted white grapefruit with distant glimmers of pine and tarragon. VM’

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The Guardian,Christmas drinks: how to choose your festive fizz, Fiona Beckett 06/12/2019:

2016-RATHFINNY-Sparkling-Rose-Brut-English-Sparkling-Wine
2016 RATHFINNY English Sparkling Ros茅 Brut
SOLD OUT聽 拢33.95 | 拢31.75
Review: ‘And if you want to splash out, the elegant Rathfinny Wine Estate Ros茅 would be delicious with the smoked salmon.鈥

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The Telegraph,The best red wines for Christmas, as picked by our expert, Victoria Moore 04/12/2019:

2014 Chateau Le Crock Saint Estephe
2014 CH脗TEAU LE CROCK Cru Bourgeois Sup茅rieur Saint Est猫phe
拢31.95 | 拢29.50
Review: ‘Yes, this claret is very young but it鈥檚 already approachable so I鈥檓 tempted to suggest buying a case and drinking it at intervals over the next few years. Ch芒teau le Crock offers such good value. Situated in St Est猫phe, it is owned by the same family as Leoville-Poyferr茅. A favourie with the L&S crew as well as with me.鈥

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2017 Lirac rouge Mordoree Reine des bois
2017 LIRAC Rouge Cuv茅e de la Reine des Bois Domaine de la Mordor茅e
拢27.95 | 拢24.95
Review: ‘Lirac lies in the southern Rh么ne just across the river from Ch芒teauneuf du Pape. Its wines are made with a similar mix of grapes but taste more of black fruit than of Ch芒teauneuf鈥檚 classic confit of red berries. This one鈥檚 a beauty 鈥 rich, full and wild.鈥

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The Telegraph,The best white wines for Christmas, as picked by our expert, Victoria Moore 03/12/2019:

2017 Condrieu Ravines Niero
2017 CONDRIEU Les Ravines Domaine R茅mi Niero
拢42.75 | 拢37.95
Review: 鈥楢n enchanting Condrieu, this Rh么ne viognier has a broad, heady perfume like honeysuckle, apricots, galangal and nectarines and dances beautifully in the mouth. Most of the blend is aged in stainless steel, allowing the purity of the grape to gleam through, with some oak and concrete egg ageing to add layers of texture. I think Condrieu is best drunk young so dig in to this now.鈥

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2017 Kumeu Estate
2017 KUMEU RIVER ‘ESTATE’ Chardonnay
拢23.95 | 拢23.95
Review: 鈥楽mart and satisfying chardonnay from one of the masters. Beautiful and rounded with hints of roasted almonds and hazelnuts; Kumeu River is known for providing a credible alternative to white Burgundy.鈥

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2017 Monts Damn茅s Sancerre
2017 SANCERRE Monts Damn茅s Chavignol Domaine Vincent Delaporte
拢33.50 | 拢29.95
Review: 鈥2018 was a warm year and so I am currently appreciating the 2017 Loire sauvignon blancs that are still around. This one comes from the silex soils of the famous, steep Mont Damn茅s vineyard close to the village of Chavignol and has great precision and depth.鈥

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The Times, The 50 best red wines for Christmas 2019, Jane MacQuitty 02/12/2019:

Bourgueuil cote 50 Yannick Amirault
2018 BOURGUEIL Cote 50 Domaine Yannick Amirault
拢16.95 | 拢15.50
Review: 鈥楲ap up this spicy and structured organic 2018. Bursting with black raspberry and redcurrant, it鈥檚 tailor-made for honey-baked ham.鈥

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2015 Beaumont Haut Medoc Cru Bourgeois
2015 CH脗TEAU BEAUMONT Cru Bourgeois Sup茅rieur Haut M茅doc
SOLD OUT聽 拢19.95 | 拢18.50
Review: 鈥楳ake this cigar-box-scented Beaumont from a good vintage your go-to Christmas claret. Its rollicking, almost 50-50, stylishly oaked mix of cabernet sauvignon and merlot is a classic, chunky crowd-pleaser.鈥

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Metro Newspaper UK, Lower your carbon footprint this Christmas with gourmet treats made in the UK, Rob Buckhaven 02/12/2019:

2016-RATHFINNY-Sparkling-Rose-Brut-English-Sparkling-Wine
2016 RATHFINNY English Sparkling Ros茅 Brut
SOLD OUT聽 拢33.95 | 拢31.75
Review: 鈥楧elivers a brass band of English rhubarb and bramble fruit flavours that morph into an elegant, silk scarf of a sparkling.鈥

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The Sunday Times, 40 bottles for Christmas: the best sparkling, white, red and dessert wines, Will Lyons 01/12/2019:

2018 Sancerre Chavignol delaporte

2018 SANCERRE Chavignol Domaine Vincent Delaporte
拢21.95 | 拢19.75
Review: 鈥楢n old favourite on these pages is this crisp, fresh Sancerre, with a long, intense flavour. A superb all-rounder, perfect with goat鈥檚 cheese and white meat.鈥

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2017 Coddington Kumeu River

2017 KUMEU RIVER Chardonnay Coddington
拢33.95 | 拢30.50
Review: 鈥楽plash out on what is undoubtedly New Zealand鈥檚 finest chardonnay. Coddington always has plenty of bite and the 2017 is elegant and ripe, with a nutty, generous finish while retaining its complexity.鈥

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2015 Beaumont Haut Medoc Cru Bourgeois

2015 CH脗TEAU BEAUMONT Cru Bourgeois Sup茅rieur Haut M茅doc
SOLD OUT聽 拢19.95 | 拢18.50
Review: 鈥楢 classic, reliable medium-bodied claret that is drinking superbly now. It has notes of wild fruit, dried tobacco and oak, with enough acidity to refresh. Delightful for the festive season.鈥

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20 years old sandeman port

SANDEMAN 20 Year Old Tawny
拢39.95 | 拢37.75
Review: 鈥楾awny port can be served slightly chilled and is a great aperitif or digestif with cheese, or even Christmas pudding. This is exceptional, with a dry, nutty finish.鈥

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NOVEMBER

The Wine Gang, November Report, The Wine Gang:

2015 Crozes Hermitage Cuv茅e Lhoni
2015 CROZES HERMITAGE Cuv茅e Lhony Domaine Gaylord Machon
拢25.95 | 拢22.95
Review: (91 points)‘Classic Crozes showing some of the tar and pepper of cool climate, old vine Syrah and yet an opulent mid-palate of succulently textured dark fruit enveloped in softening oak for a combination of richness and elegant balance. This has a good five years鈥 life in it. Pairs nicely with: Rack of lamb. Shepherd鈥檚 pie, suckling pig.’

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2017-ONE-BLOCK-Yellingbo-Yarra-Valley-Syrah
2017 ONE BLOCK ‘Yellingbo’ Yarra Valley Syrah
拢30.95 | 拢27.95
Review: (92 points)‘Properly called Syrah rather than Shiraz by young gun winemaker Jayden Ong, because the Yarra Valley brings a cool climate element that corresponds to the Northern Rh么ne in character for a juicy, peppery and spicy black fruit succulence whose savoury finish brings beautiful balance.
Pairs nicely with: Chicken and ham pie, duck breast.’

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Financial Times, Jancis Robinson鈥檚 best red wines to drink this Christmas, Jancis Robinson 29/11/2019:

“I approve, on the other hand, of policies such as Lea & Sandeman鈥檚, of having a single-bottle price (such as those cited below) but rewarding customers who buy mixed dozens with a substantial discount.”

2015 Crozes Hermitage Cuv茅e Lhoni
2015 CROZES HERMITAGE Cuv茅e Lhony Domaine Gaylord Machon
拢25.95 | 拢22.95
Review: 鈥楢 ripe but muscular northern Rh么ne Syrah that should satisfy many over the next few years.鈥

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2013 Monteti
2013 MONTETI Tenuta Monteti
SOLD OUT (2014 vintage available instead)
Review: 鈥楢 Bordeaux blend heavy on Petit Verdot from the south of the Maremma. Flattering. Mature with marked sweetness.鈥

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The Telegraph, The best luxury champagne to pop this Christmas, Victoria Moore 29/11/2019:

Cremant de Loire
CR脡MANT DE LOIRE Brut Domaine des Hauts Perrays
拢13.95 | 拢12.95
Review: 鈥楧omaine des Hauts Perrays Cr茅mant de Loire Brut NV France is simply superb. A cr茅mant made in the Loire from chenin blanc, chardonnay and cabernet franc grapes, it has a touch of the warm brioche and honeyed scent you might look for on a champagne with a nervosity that makes it feel refreshing and alert.鈥

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Coates and Seely Britagne reserve
COATES & SEELY Reserve Brut Britagne
拢29.95 | 拢27.95
Review: 鈥楥oates & Seely Brut Reserve NV Hampshire, England goes from strength to strength. It鈥檚 a pinot-based blend and carries a suggestion of fresh walnuts and cherries with a sappy energy and rapier acidity.鈥

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www.joannasimon.com, WINE OF THE WEEK: Ch芒teau Puygueraud 2011, Francs C么tes de Bordeaux, France, Joanna Simon 28/11/2019:

2011 Puygueraud Cotes de Francs
2011 CH脗TEAU PUYGUERAUD C么tes de Francs
拢20.95 | 拢19.25
Review: 鈥楾he 2011 vintage in Bordeaux tends to be dismissed with faint praise 鈥 if that. Certainly, it was uneven and not a patch on 2009 or 2010, but some good wines were produced by the right people in the right place. Some very good. Step forward Ch芒teau Puygueraud, made by Nicolas Thienpont in the tiny (by Bordeaux standards) northeastern appellation of Francs C么tes de Bordeaux (previously C么tes de Franc). The 2011 鈥 Merlot with 20% Cabernet Franc and a smidge of Malbec 鈥 is absolutely perfect now: approachable, mellow and full of charm, with generous mulberry and blackcurrant fruit, cedary spice and graphite notes and easy tannins. If you drink claret or want to give it at Christmas, then this is spot on. Otherwise, feed it something like a herb-crusted roast rack of lamb, roast beef (hot or cold), parmentier de canard or some mushrooms.鈥

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The Daily Mail, Olly Smith’s guide on how to become a wine expert, Olly Smith 23/11/2019:

2014 Rippon Pinot Noir
2014 RIPPON ‘Rippon’ Pinot Noir
拢39.95 | 拢36.50
Review: 鈥楤EST BUY For a top buy and a rare treat, New Zealand鈥檚 Rippon Mature Vine Pinot Noir 2014 (13%) is splendidly silky, farmed biodynamically and well worth splashing out for.鈥

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2017 Yellingbo Syrah
2017 ONE BLOCK ‘Yellingbo’ Yarra Valley Syrah
拢30.95 | 拢27.95
Review: 鈥楤EST BUY Syrah/Shiraz.鈥

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2017 SAINT AUBIN Compendium Domaine Joseph Colin
SOLD OUT
Review: 鈥楤EST BUY Burgundy.鈥

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The Financial Times, The best sparkling wines for Christmas, Jancis Robinson 22/11/2019:

2015 Gusbourne Brut Reserve
2015 GUSBOURNE Brut R茅serve Brut English Sparkling Wine
SOLD OUT聽 拢38.95 | 拢33.95
Review: 鈥楺uite fruity and accessible already, but with a dry finish. This would certainly make a good party wine 鈥 not too complicated, tart or dry.鈥

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The Telegraph, The best champagne and sparkling wine for Christmas 2019, Victoria Moore 21/11/2019:

BARNAUT 'Blanc de Noirs' Brut Grand Cru Bouzy Champagne NV
BARNAUT ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Brut Grand Cru Bouzy Champagne NV
拢27.95 | 拢26.50
Review: 鈥楲ike Bollinger, this is made with around two thirds pinot noir, which gives it a firm structure and undertones of spice, toast and cherry compote. A serious champagne with a sappy uplift 鈥 at a bargain price.鈥

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SPEAR’S, Independents’ day, Jonathan Ray 19/11/2019:

2013 MONTETI Tenuta Monteti
2013 MONTETI Tenuta Monteti
SOLD OUT (2014 vintage available instead)
Review: 鈥楢 Bordeaux-style red from Tuscany that gives many a so-called ‘Super Tuscan’ a run for its money.鈥

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The Observer,The 50 best wines for Christmas 2019, David Williams 17/11/2019:

2016 Engelgarten Deiss

2016 ENGELGARTEN Domaine Marcel Deiss
拢36.95 | 拢32.95
Review: ‘In a region that is known for its single varietal wines, Marcel Deiss鈥檚 biodynamically-grown single-vineyard engelgarten mixes up five varieties for a gloriously sensual, exotically scented, full-bodied but finely balanced dry white.鈥

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2018 Rustenberg Straw Wine

2018 RUSTENBERG Straw Wine
SOLD OUT聽 拢10.50 | 拢9.75
Review:
A South African version of what the French would call a vin de paille, this gorgeous dessert wine is made from grapes dried on straw mats in the Cape sun, tasting like sweet ripe apricots stored in a luscious syrup of orange blossom honey.鈥

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OCTOBER

The Times, The best riojas: how to create the perfect Spanish wine, Jane MacQuitty 02/11/2019:

2017 Los Corrillos Blanco Tentenublo
2017 Los Corrillos Blanco Tentenublo
拢39.50 | 拢35.50
Review: 鈥楾extbook white rioja with elegant, sweet vanilla spice and stylishly integrated oak.鈥

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The Telegraph, Why a fragrant cabernet franc is the grape to seek out this autumn, Victoria Moore 01/11/2019:

Paleo Le Macchiole
2015 PALEO Rosso Le Macchiole
拢79.50 | 拢70.95
Review: ‘Cabernet franc in Bolgheri is really special 鈥 as a wine like Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso 2015 demonstrates.’

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SPEAR’S, Why a good Riesling is hard to beat, Jonathan Ray 25/10/2019:

2017 Pikes Riesling The Merle
2017 Pikes 鈥楾he Merle鈥 Polish Hill River Estate
SOLD OUT
Review: 鈥楢 fine example from the Clare Valley. Bone-dry with a clean, mineral core and a succulent finish.鈥

The Sunday Times, Wine review: the best sherry to buy now, Will Lyons 20/10/2019:

Inocente Valdespino Fino
INOCENTE Fino Valdespino
拢8.75 (Half-bottles of 37.5cl) | 拢7.95
Review: 鈥楢 single-vineyard fino that has become something of a cult classic among the cognoscenti. From one of the oldest bodegas in Jerez, its fermentation in oak barrels gives it an extra layer of complexity, with fine nutty aromas. Try chilled with smoked salmon.鈥

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Daily Mail, Our man samples the best of the UK’s indie wine sellers, Olly Smith, 12/10/2019:

2017 ONE BLOCK 'Yellingbo' Yarra Valley Syrah
2017 ONE BLOCK ‘Yellingbo’ Yarra Valley Syrah
拢30.95 | 拢27.95
Review: 鈥業ntriguing as as black olive wreathed in secret spice. I bought it!鈥

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2015 STEM THEORY Michael Klouda Wines
2015 STEM THEORY Michael Klouda Wines
拢24.50 | 拢21.95
Review: 鈥楽urprise wine of the day? A US blend from Lea & Sandeman: Stem Theory 2015 (14.5%), 拢24.50 鈥 so good I just had to buy it.鈥

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Life Spectator, Wines of the week: try a pink cr茅mant from Bordeaux, Jonathan Ray, 11/10/2019:

2018 Artuke Rioja
2018 ARTUKE RIOJA Bodegas y Vi帽edos Artuke
拢11.95 | 拢10.75
Review: 鈥楾his hit the bullseye at the autumn tasting of The Bunch, of which august group of independent merchants L&S is a member. A blend of 95 per cent (red) Tempranillo and 5 per cent (white) Viura, it sees no oak at all and is as fresh and lively a red as you鈥檒l find, far removed from the sweet, mellow Riojas of old and closer indeed to fine cru Beaujolais. It鈥檚 joyously quaffable.鈥

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The Times, My favourite big autumnal red wines, Jane Mcquitty, 05/10/2019:

GIGONDAS 2017 Domaine la Bou茂ssi猫re
2017 GIGONDAS Domaine la Bou茂ssi猫re
拢27.95 | 拢24.50
Review: 鈥楬it the heights with this hefty, deep, dark, fruity gigondas, scented with black olives and thyme.鈥

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