Margaux
Margaux is capricious. It can be the trickiest of left bank appellations – sometimes you will never see beyond its façade which, albeit attractive, does not reveal the hidden depths beneath. Caught at the right time, however and it is (in this writer’s opinion) the finest Bordeaux can offer. A sea of violets and other floral delights, decadent blue fruits, chocolates – a swirling cornucopia of flavour and depth. 2022 Margaux, has given us plenty of opportunities to experience this pleasure in the near future.
It’s expected that both Château Margaux and Palmer will make great wines, they always do, but 2022 helped accentuate this. Palmer sailed against the prevailing wind and chose to heavily extract – a move which was almost unanimously avoided across Bordeaux due to the high ratio of skins to juice (some vats were as much as 2/3rds skin to 1/3rd juice – it’s usually the other way around). The astounding elegance which they have managed to fashion from this process makes me question everything I know about wine making.
Brane-Cantenac have found their magic. This wine belongs to a distinguished few of those we tasted at Primeur, with qualities which surpassed structural promise and delivered genuine pleasure and nuance. The entire team left in a state of total enthusiasm.
Rauzan-Ségla deserves a mention here too; although it is no surprise that their wine was one of the very best – it was also lovely to return to the ritual at the Château in which they allow you to taste from several different barrels. In a suspicious world, where there is sometimes fear that we are being fed only the best barrel at En Primeur, this lends further authenticity to their frankly fantastic wine making.
Bargains also abound in Margaux. Look to the more affordable end of the spectrum for something really fun. Labégorce was properly powerful, Cantemerle (we know, not quite Margaux, but near enough) continuing their streak of good form. The extra heat has really pushed some petit Château to the next level.
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L&S Recommendations
L&S 'best buy' recommendations are marked with this symbol .
2022 CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 1er Cru Classé
Release date: 19/6/2023
Stunning in its density and construction, with a gorgeous balance that starts with red rose aromatics and slides into creamy and intense raspberry, damson, loganberry and cassis fruits. The intenseStunning in its density and construction, with a gorgeous balance that starts with red rose aromatics and slides into creamy and intense raspberry, damson, loganberry and cassis fruits. The intense structure of the vintage is on display, here with velvety tannins giving shape and contrast by a push and pull of slate, graphite, cloves, turmeric, cardamom and white pepper. Bitter dark chocolate ending, a character of the year but here delivered with a blast of cooling mint leaf. Philippe Bascaules director, harvest September 8 to 27, 25hl/h yield. 100% new oak, to be monitored carefully over ageing because this is the first time they have seen this level of alcohol in the Cabernet Sauvignon. 40% of the crop is into this 1st wine, one of the highest in years. Harvest September 8 to 27. They are slowly changing the row orientation in the vineyard at Margaux, begun last year but a 50 year project, and introducing more Cabernet Franc through field grafting (wanting to get up to maybe 15% of plantings, currently 5%). Drinking range: 2032 - 2052 Rating: 98-100 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU DURFORT VIVENS 2ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 15/6/2023
The 2022 Durfort-Vivens is a wild, exotic wine that very much shows the natural opulence of the year. Super-ripe dark red/purplish fruit, pomegranate and sweet spice are front and center. There’s aThe 2022 Durfort-Vivens is a wild, exotic wine that very much shows the natural opulence of the year. Super-ripe dark red/purplish fruit, pomegranate and sweet spice are front and center. There’s a bit more Merlot in this year’s blend, and that seems to come through in the wine’s overall fruit intensity. The final blend is project to be 70% new oak and 30% amphora, but the sample I tasted was only taken from oak components, as the wine had only been racked into amphora shortly prior to this tasting. Drinking range: 2030 - 2052 Rating: 92-94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU D'ISSAN 3ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 14/6/2023
The nose has natural charm in a mild, harmonious mode that also shows on the palate. This is a poised, refined wine with depth and bright, ripe fruit flavours that provide a juicy finish. It willThe nose has natural charm in a mild, harmonious mode that also shows on the palate. This is a poised, refined wine with depth and bright, ripe fruit flavours that provide a juicy finish. It will easily digest its natural richness. Rating: 95-96 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 BARON DE BRANE Margaux Château Brane-Cantenac
Release date: 12/6/2023
Clear fig and dried fruit notes, but this also has extremely clear freshness and lift, and opens up to show baked earth, pomegranate, tar and black chocolate. Gourmet, well handled. 38% ofClear fig and dried fruit notes, but this also has extremely clear freshness and lift, and opens up to show baked earth, pomegranate, tar and black chocolate. Gourmet, well handled. 38% of production. 30th vintage for Henri Lurton at Brane, 31hl/h yield, harvest September 7 to October 10 (last day was the Carmanère). They only used press wine from Cabernet Sauvignon this year (something that has only been true once before), 3.57ph. Drinking range: 2027 - 2042 Rating: 92 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC 2ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 12/6/2023
For what is his 30th vintage, Henri Lurton has again produced a most stylish wine, whose aristocratic profile and precise, gentle extraction has totally preserved both fruit flavours and favouredFor what is his 30th vintage, Henri Lurton has again produced a most stylish wine, whose aristocratic profile and precise, gentle extraction has totally preserved both fruit flavours and favoured silky tannins. It also has superb length. Rating: 95-97 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA 2ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 9/6/2023
Together with its intense aromas of fresh black fruit, its density and depth, this 2022 additionally contains beautifully velvety tannins. Its presence on the palate shows elegance and greatTogether with its intense aromas of fresh black fruit, its density and depth, this 2022 additionally contains beautifully velvety tannins. Its presence on the palate shows elegance and great persistence with a lifted finish. This is Rauzan at its very best, and very likely a new benchamark for the estate. Rating: 97-98 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU GISCOURS 3ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 9/6/2023
Well judged and executed, with the vintage character coming through with the rich plum, cassis and fresh fig fruits, alongside black pepper and clove spices, but overall the feel is savoury, withWell judged and executed, with the vintage character coming through with the rich plum, cassis and fresh fig fruits, alongside black pepper and clove spices, but overall the feel is savoury, with austere tannins that are clearly revving up and have plenty of character. Impressive lift also, with juice running right through the palate, giving breath to the concentrated muscular tannic frame. Austerity also at this point, relatively rare and welcome in 2022, and emphasising a floral and smoky curl on the finish. 50% new oak. Entire harvest in the Grand Vin for the first time ever at Giscours (although I assume there must have been some of the production that was not bottled under the label). Axel Marchal consultant, Alexander Van Beek director. Drinking range: 2029 - 2044 Rating: 95 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU CANTENAC BROWN 3ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 8/6/2023
A few years ago, this estate purchased 22 additional hectares in the heart of the plateau of Margaux, including old vine Cabernet Sauvignon that is now making an appreciable contribution to theA few years ago, this estate purchased 22 additional hectares in the heart of the plateau of Margaux, including old vine Cabernet Sauvignon that is now making an appreciable contribution to the blend, and that helps to explain why the 2022 Cantenac Brown is so good. Unwinding in the glass with notes of dark berries, plums, charcoal, pencil shavings and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and elegantly muscular, with a layered core, refined tannins and a penetrating finish. The finest wine that José Sanfins has produced to date, the 2022 only improved during the several weeks I spent in Bordeaux. It's a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon and 31% Merlot. Rating: 94-96 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU MONBRISON Cru Bourgeois Supérieur Margaux
Release date: 7/6/2023
This estate has produced a flamboyant 2022 with an intensely fruity nose and a palate that is as refined as it is well wrapped. The finish is fine and harmonious and the tannins very well integrated.This estate has produced a flamboyant 2022 with an intensely fruity nose and a palate that is as refined as it is well wrapped. The finish is fine and harmonious and the tannins very well integrated. Rating: 93-95 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU MARQUIS DE TERME 4ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 6/6/2023
This richly constituted, dense wine has lots of potential. Its substance is deep, but for the moment it is very tight with an impressive mass of tannins on the finish.This richly constituted, dense wine has lots of potential. Its substance is deep, but for the moment it is very tight with an impressive mass of tannins on the finish. Rating: 93-95 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 ALTER EGO du Château Palmer Margaux
Release date: 5/6/2023
The minerality and intensity to this wine is very impressive with blackberry and blue berry aromas and flavors. Salt and pepper. It’s full and linear with a brightness and freshness. Compacted centerThe minerality and intensity to this wine is very impressive with blackberry and blue berry aromas and flavors. Salt and pepper. It’s full and linear with a brightness and freshness. Compacted center palate. Rating: 96-97 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU PALMER 3ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 5/6/2023
So much class in the nose with a sophisticated kaleidoscope of dark fruit such as blackcurrants, and spices such as salt and pepper, as well as cloves and nutmeg. Full-bodied. Compacted and dense yetSo much class in the nose with a sophisticated kaleidoscope of dark fruit such as blackcurrants, and spices such as salt and pepper, as well as cloves and nutmeg. Full-bodied. Compacted and dense yet weightless. It opens beautifully. The tannins go on and on with wonderful presence. Salty undertones. Rating: 98-99 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU ANGLUDET Cru Bourgeois Supérieur Margaux
Release date: 31/5/2023
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Deep crimson. Light nose. Very sweet start and then a certain greenness. Not sumptuous but an amalgam of two, for the moment, disparate parts.Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Deep crimson. Light nose. Very sweet start and then a certain greenness. Not sumptuous but an amalgam of two, for the moment, disparate parts. Rather hollow finish. 13.5% Drinking range: 2027 - 2038 Rating: 15.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU KIRWAN 3ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 31/5/2023
This estate has shown considerable progress over recent vintages and this 2022 is the best that we have tasted as a future. It reveals a superbly fresh bouquet of red and black fruit. The palate isThis estate has shown considerable progress over recent vintages and this 2022 is the best that we have tasted as a future. It reveals a superbly fresh bouquet of red and black fruit. The palate is pure and upright and the quality of the tannins excellent. Long and silky, this is very successful in this vintage. Rating: 95-96 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU MARQUIS D'ALESME 3ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 30/5/2023
This is a solid, spicy and oaky wine with far too much extract and musculature on display. It has the sensation of an Amarone, such is the heat and hardness of the wine. This is a solid, spicy and oaky wine with far too much extract and musculature on display. It has the sensation of an Amarone, such is the heat and hardness of the wine. Rating: 15.5++ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU LABÉGORCE Cru Bourgeois Supérieur Margaux
Release date: 30/5/2023
This is a no-holds-barred Labegorce in 2022. Dense with richly ripe fruit up front. Dark and velveteen on the attack, then fresh cigar leaf and asian baking spice, clove too take the stage as theThis is a no-holds-barred Labegorce in 2022. Dense with richly ripe fruit up front. Dark and velveteen on the attack, then fresh cigar leaf and asian baking spice, clove too take the stage as the grip builds, but this super-fine, grainy rub adds a fresh feel. The fruit balances and mellows, becoming straighter and brighter. This restraint in the middle leads to nice brambling rich cloak of fruit on the finish and a lick of acid which will be great as this wine evolves.L&S (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU FERRIÈRE 3ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 17/5/2023
A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2022 Ferrière offers up aromas of dark berries, plums and sweet soil tones, followed by a medium toA blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2022 Ferrière offers up aromas of dark berries, plums and sweet soil tones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and layered palate that's suave, elegantly muscular and lively. From biodynamically farmed clay-rich gravels, this 18-hectare estate (formerly leased to Château Lascombes) possesses an unusually high proportion of old vines, with fully one-third of their vineyards over 70 years of age. Rating: 92-94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU LA GURGUE Cru Bourgeois Supérieur Margaux
Release date: 17/5/2023
The 2022 La Gurgue comes from a vineyard that now has more Petit Verdot that replaces Merlot from a selection massale, so that this vintage includes 17%. Picked September 9-30, matured in a prudentThe 2022 La Gurgue comes from a vineyard that now has more Petit Verdot that replaces Merlot from a selection massale, so that this vintage includes 17%. Picked September 9-30, matured in a prudent 15% new oak, it has a very pure bouquet with black plum and flecks of dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with a soft and pliant entry, lightly spiced, harmonious with a saline finish. Fine length and probably destined to be one of the most approachable wines of the appellation. Drinking range: 2026 - 2042 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU BOYD CANTENAC 3ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 17/5/2023
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2022 CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ LICHINE 4ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 16/5/2023
This is undoubtedly the best wine we have tasted at Prieuré Lichine. Soft and delicate, yet dense and sappy, it relies on a beautifully full mid-palate and a very velvety touch to the finish.This is undoubtedly the best wine we have tasted at Prieuré Lichine. Soft and delicate, yet dense and sappy, it relies on a beautifully full mid-palate and a very velvety touch to the finish. Rating: 94-96 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE 5ème Cru Classé Margaux
Release date: 15/5/2023
57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. The insurance company who bought this recently have given management of it to Grands Chais de France. Cask sample. Blackish57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. The insurance company who bought this recently have given management of it to Grands Chais de France. Cask sample. Blackish purple. Super-ripe nose. Rather cool-tasting! Lots of fruit concentration and a fair amount of obvious, very slightly rustic tannin on the end. Just a bit more jagged in texture and workmanlike than a typical Margaux. 13.5% Drinking range: 2029 - 2043 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (May 2023)
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2022 BLASON D'ISSAN Margaux Château d'Issan
This is a fantastic Blason with deep and dark fruit with hazelnut and chocolate aromas and flavors. Full-bodied with juicy tannins and a structured finish. What a second wine. 55% merlot, 44%This is a fantastic Blason with deep and dark fruit with hazelnut and chocolate aromas and flavors. Full-bodied with juicy tannins and a structured finish. What a second wine. 55% merlot, 44% cabernet sauvignon and 1% petit verdot. Rating: 94-95 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU LA TOUR DE MONS Margaux
Acquired by the Perrodo family in 2020, this estate is gradually re-emerging, showing here a most delicious wine with notes of crushed red fruit and a very dynamic feel to the palate. One to follow.Acquired by the Perrodo family in 2020, this estate is gradually re-emerging, showing here a most delicious wine with notes of crushed red fruit and a very dynamic feel to the palate. One to follow. Rating: 90-92 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU MALESCOT SAINT EXUPÉRY 3ème Cru Classé Margaux
The 2022 Malescot Saint Exupéry was picked from 19 September until 5 October, stopping over two weekends as it rained. Every parcel contributed fruit to the Grand Vin and there is 14.5% alcohol.The 2022 Malescot Saint Exupéry was picked from 19 September until 5 October, stopping over two weekends as it rained. Every parcel contributed fruit to the Grand Vin and there is 14.5% alcohol. Raised in 70% new oak with most of the malo done in barrel, it has a fragrant bouquet with red cherries, raspberry coulis, blueberry and violet scents. The palate has a well-defined entry with sour cherry, raspberry, blackcurrant and touches of marmalade. Not powerful, but harmonious with a silky texture, this is a precision-tooled Margaux that will give 20 to 30 years of drinking pleasure. Drinking range: 2027 - 2052 Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2023)
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2022 PAVILLON ROUGE du Château Margaux
64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 60% new oak. 14.5% alc. 25 hl/ha. 85 IPT. 3.63 pH. 88 IPT GV. Pavillon Rouge represents 32% of the64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 60% new oak. 14.5% alc. 25 hl/ha. 85 IPT. 3.63 pH. 88 IPT GV. Pavillon Rouge represents 32% of the crop. Winemaker Philippe Bascaules explained there is a slight increase in Petit Verdot in Pavillon Rouge this vintage because he decided not to use the old block in the Grand Vin. This was mainly because the Grand Vin didn’t need any more power! Regarding the vintage, Philippe elaborated that it was an ‘easy year’, with no real problems from frost or mildew, but the only downside was the small size of the berries, which brought the yields down. The younger vines didn’t fare too well, but the old vines on gravel and limestone were superb, and they managed to keep their green leaves throughout the summer. The result was some of the most concentrated Margaux wines ever made. The addition of extra Petit Verdot in Pavillon Rouge has seemingly given it even more concentration and flair. The depth of flavour is incredible here, and the weight is definitely medium-plus but perhaps not as heavy as one might assume by reading the stats above. This is an astoundingly adroit and upright Pavillon Rouge. M. Bascaules said, ‘If you said this wine was Château Margaux blind, I could believe it!’ This is such a fresh wine, crammed with drama, depth, graphite and tension, and it promises massive potential for the future. Last year, everyone said Merlot had had its day, and this year Merlot has played a great card. Bascaules signed off with this prophetic line, ‘We are confident in nature and its capacity to react and rise to the challenge’. How right he is, as his vines have managed the extreme conditions of this vintage and delivered two magnificent wines. Rating: 18.5+ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (May 2023)
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2022 PAVILLON BLANC du Château Margaux
On the palate, the 2022 Pavillon Blanc retains terrific freshness and is done in a style that lies somewhere in between more generous years such as 2018, 2019 and 2020, and the more saline years likeOn the palate, the 2022 Pavillon Blanc retains terrific freshness and is done in a style that lies somewhere in between more generous years such as 2018, 2019 and 2020, and the more saline years like 2017 and 2021. This is a very creamy, layered dry white. Here, too, I am struck by the wine’s precision. Rating: 92-94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2023)
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