Saint Estèphe
Traditionally Saint-Estèphe does well in hot vintages – the relative coolness of much of this zone, close to the Gironde and with good amounts of clay in the subsoil can mean that of all the left bank, it is here where things cope better in the heat. And in 2022 we found much to delight. Although not everyone has really pulled it off - we found some wines hard and a little dense this year.
Château Montrose and the second wine La Dame – were both exceptional in 2022 – a real highpoint for the appellation. We tasted well at Lafon-Rochet – which is now part of the Lorenzetti family’s growing empire. They have put Christophe Congé from Château Lafite at the reins and we’re sure this is an estate in good hands and with a promising future. The 2022 is very much a ‘Grand Vin’ and will need time to really come into its own – but it is an impressive first effort here. They also run Château Lilian Ladouys – which is often a highly recommendable cellar filler and does not disappoint in 2022. Old friends Haut-Marbuzet, Les Ormes de Pez and Le Crock each captured the best from this complicated vintage and Meyney have a made a wine that will run and run.
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L&S Recommendations
L&S 'best buy' recommendations are marked with this symbol .
2022 CHÂTEAU MONTROSE 2ème Cru Classé Saint Estèphe
Release date: 16/6/2023
Contained power is what could best qualify this Montrose 2022. This wine has exceptional density and concentration, yet the overall balance is achieved by the definition and brightness of the fruit.Contained power is what could best qualify this Montrose 2022. This wine has exceptional density and concentration, yet the overall balance is achieved by the definition and brightness of the fruit. A full-bodied Montrose that is also more relaxed than usual, and we loved it! Rating: 98-100 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 DAME DE MONTROSE Saint Estèphe Château Montrose
Release date: 16/6/2023
The blend is 71% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, with a yield across the estate of 31 hl/ha. This took 40% of production. The Merlot features more in the blendThe blend is 71% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, with a yield across the estate of 31 hl/ha. This took 40% of production. The Merlot features more in the blend as it was a little more generous this year, and was of high quality. The nose is all sweet blackcurrant fruit with layers of toast and cigar, with a little sooty richness. The palate feels rather restrained, certainly modest in terms of substance and texture, with lithe currant and sooty blackcurrant fruits, as well as a soft ribbon of tobacco tannins tied all around, and a sense of easy freshness. It finishes with a little flourish of dark tannin. This is a charming La Dame with a soft structure which will certainly be approachable within the first 6 or 7 years. The élevage will be in 30% new oak. The alcohol is 14.6% on analysis. Rating: 90-92 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU CALON SÉGUR 3ème Cru Classé Saint Estèphe
Release date: 15/6/2023
The 2022 Calon-Ségur is another superb wine from this historic Saint-Estèphe third growth that began a comprehensive renaissance the better part of a decade ago. Unwinding in the glass with aromas ofThe 2022 Calon-Ségur is another superb wine from this historic Saint-Estèphe third growth that began a comprehensive renaissance the better part of a decade ago. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis and blackberries mingled with hints of fresh mint, burning embers, licorice and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with terrific depth at the core, supple tannins and a long, saline finish. The blend consists of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Vincent Millet observed that "when you tasted the Merlot, you were under the impression that you were tasting Cabernet." Rating: 96-98 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU CAPBERN Saint Estèphe
Release date: 15/6/2023
Attractive inky ruby colour, sculpted slightly heady iris flowers on the aromatics, opens to damson fruits, cocoa bean, liquorice root, slate, clear concentration and a flash of heat. Harvest beganAttractive inky ruby colour, sculpted slightly heady iris flowers on the aromatics, opens to damson fruits, cocoa bean, liquorice root, slate, clear concentration and a flash of heat. Harvest began on September 6, earliest ever seen here, through to September 27. 26hl/h yields. 60% new oak. Drinking range: 2026 - 2038 Rating: 91 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (Apr 2023)
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2022 MARQUIS DE CALON Saint Estèphe Château Calon Ségur
Release date: 15/6/2023
The 2022 Le Marquis de Calon-Ségur, which contains 15% alcohol, represents 43% of this year's volume. There's copious red fruit on the nose, and redcurrant, wild strawberry and orange pith notesThe 2022 Le Marquis de Calon-Ségur, which contains 15% alcohol, represents 43% of this year's volume. There's copious red fruit on the nose, and redcurrant, wild strawberry and orange pith notes filter through with time. Shows impressive delineation considering the level of alcohol. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and a firm structure. A fine graphite element threads from start to finish with a detailed, very Saint-Estèphe ending. Drinking range: 2026 - 2040 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Apr 2023)
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2022 PAGODES DE COS du Château Cos d'Estournel Saint Estèphe
Release date: 14/6/2023
Aromas of rich berries, plums, spices and pencil shavings introduce the 2022 Les Pagodes de Cos, a medium to full-bodied, rich and muscular wine that's fleshy and extracted while remaining somewhatAromas of rich berries, plums, spices and pencil shavings introduce the 2022 Les Pagodes de Cos, a medium to full-bodied, rich and muscular wine that's fleshy and extracted while remaining somewhat fresh and vibrant. Rating: 89-91 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL 2ème Cru Classé Saint Estèphe
Release date: 14/6/2023
61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 50% new oak. 14.04% alc. 33 hl/ha. 3.79 pH. 90 IPT. 33 hl/ha Harvest took place between 7 – 23 September I tasted the61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 50% new oak. 14.04% alc. 33 hl/ha. 3.79 pH. 90 IPT. 33 hl/ha Harvest took place between 7 – 23 September I tasted the Cos portfolio of wines with owner Michel Reybier and winemaker Dominique Arangoïts. As this was right at the beginning of my week of tasting, they were kind enough to elaborate on the critical points of the vintage from their point of view and position on the Left Bank. They reported that May was unseasonably warm and that three heatwaves followed in June (14th – 18th ), July (9th – 18th) and August (2nd – 13th). However, thanks to their setting close to the Gironde and the Atlantic, the nights were mercifully cool (15/16C) at Cos, and sea breezes helped to refresh the vines, keeping them going throughout the dry and warm summer. Harvest started on the 7th of September, making it the earliest since 1989, and this vintage was, according to Dominique, even hotter than both 1947 and 1949. With this in mind, it would also suggest that the finest 2022s will last a long time. So with the scene set, it was incredible to taste this wine and discover just how bright and clean it feels despite the density of the extraordinary fruit and the scale of the majestic tannins. While this is a closed and firm wine, there is exquisite control here, and a stunning perfume and prodigious finish bookend a magnificent mid-palate. The famous Cos minerality brings gravitas and flair to the whole, making this black-fruit-soaked wine seem momentarily weightless and aerial. The future is blindingly bright for 2022 Cos, and I imagine some will dip into this wine early because the fruit flavours are so unutterably hedonistic. Rating: 19+ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU LAFON-ROCHET 4ème Cru Classé Saint Estèphe
Release date: 14/6/2023
The inaugural vintage for winemaker Christophe Congé, the 2022 Lafon-Rochet is an ambitiously styled blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Offering up aromas of crème deThe inaugural vintage for winemaker Christophe Congé, the 2022 Lafon-Rochet is an ambitiously styled blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Offering up aromas of crème de cassis, burning embers and loamy soil, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and velvety, with supple, generously extracted tannins and a rather lavish, demonstrative profile. It's a wine crafted to grab one's attention, but if élevage is kind to it, it may make my score seem conservative. Rating: 90-92 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU PHÉLAN SÉGUR Saint Estèphe
Release date: 12/6/2023
This estate continues its progression and a very small harvest has produced a beautifully defined wine. Very pure, showing elegant fruit flavours, the blend of this 2022 contains an unusually highThis estate continues its progression and a very small harvest has produced a beautifully defined wine. Very pure, showing elegant fruit flavours, the blend of this 2022 contains an unusually high proportion of Merlot (56%) due to the quality observed in this variety. The finish shows very silky tannins. Rating: 94-96 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU DE PEZ Cru Bourgeois Saint Estèphe
Release date: 8/6/2023
59% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Liquorice and dark-fruit notes. Layered fruit on the palate with a touch of oak as well. Powerful tannic frame.59% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Liquorice and dark-fruit notes. Layered fruit on the palate with a touch of oak as well. Powerful tannic frame. Oak needs to settle but plenty of substance. (JL) 14% Drinking range: 2030 - 2040 Rating: 16.5 James Lawther MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU HAUT MARBUZET Saint Estèphe
Release date: 6/6/2023
The lowest yields on record at the estate (30hl/hectare) have produced small, very concentrated berries that result in a very dense wine that also manages to seem fine and delicate. It indeed hasThe lowest yields on record at the estate (30hl/hectare) have produced small, very concentrated berries that result in a very dense wine that also manages to seem fine and delicate. It indeed has plenty of tannins, but these are extremely silky. An Haut Marbuzet to remember, signed by Henri and Bruno Dubosq. Rating: 94-96 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU LE CROCK Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel Saint Estèphe
Release date: 1/6/2023
This estate was severely struck by hail and has produced a very small quantity of 2022. It is nonetheless a very promising wine, dense and equipped with solid tannins that are well integrated withThis estate was severely struck by hail and has produced a very small quantity of 2022. It is nonetheless a very promising wine, dense and equipped with solid tannins that are well integrated with ripe, rich fruit substance. Rating: 92-94 La Revue du Vin de France (May 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU LES ORMES DE PEZ Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel Saint Estèphe
Release date: 22/5/2023
It was a great visit to Lynch Bages to taste the Cazes family wines. Despite being at the end of a very long day the Ormes de Pez was a real delight to taste, bright and charming. Always a favouriteIt was a great visit to Lynch Bages to taste the Cazes family wines. Despite being at the end of a very long day the Ormes de Pez was a real delight to taste, bright and charming. Always a favourite en primeur the 2022 does not disappoint. With a quite open-knit spread of finely ripe plum and black berries on the attack - this becomes more serious and more textured in the mouth, with fine sophisticated tannic rub, a suede-like scrape on the long finish adds some mineral feel and bright lift. The wonderful Merlot, here at 51%, takes centre stage, resulting in a wine that leads on joy and yet is perfectly poised and sophisticated. The 2022 release from Ormes de Pez is fabulous, but is sadly heavily depleted after the family lost 40% of the fruit here in the devastating June hailstorm. Dig in while you can. L&S (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU MEYNEY Cru Bourgeois Supérieur Saint Estèphe
Release date: 12/5/2023
It had been some time since we last visited Château Meyney, and it was a great to be back to taste the 2022 vintage here. It was a salient reminder of quite how well placed Meyney is - particularlyIt had been some time since we last visited Château Meyney, and it was a great to be back to taste the 2022 vintage here. It was a salient reminder of quite how well placed Meyney is - particularly in a warm vintage. They must lay claim to being one of the coolest spots in the Medoc, with vines running down to the cooling waters of the Gironde and they're also situated on some of the highest ground around - at a dizzying 13m! Below the gravel lies blue clay in good plots and this also helped retain moisture and add a freshness to the wine. With a generous slug of Petit Verdot too - the alcohol remains low at a very respectable 13.5%, rare in this vintage. Although dark and with a gentle brooding line of savour this remains pure, long and juicily brisk on the palate. Lots of dark forest berries dominate the core and then some hedgerow scents too and citrus kick perk things up and push to a lifted, fresh finish. Good effort. 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 13% Petit Verdot.L&S (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU LILIAN LADOUYS Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel Saint Estèphe
Release date: 12/5/2023
Tasted at Chateau Pedescalux with winemaker Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, the Lilian Ladouys is a broad and intense effort in 2022. They had hail here in June and lost about 30% of the crop, this forcedTasted at Chateau Pedescalux with winemaker Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, the Lilian Ladouys is a broad and intense effort in 2022. They had hail here in June and lost about 30% of the crop, this forced them to up the percentage of Merlot, from limestone plots, which has been very successful adding a fresh undercurrent. Deep and dark there is impressive density and rich feel - but the crunch of blackberries and whiff of Violets tell the story of where this is from with great clarity. Very Saint Estephe - there is a purity and a directness to the fruit, lifted somehow despite the power and breadth. A charmer but more beefy than some although the tannins are super sleek too. The finish is long and has a fresh brush of minerality that drives it onwards. Impressive. Organic conversion began in 2020, with 100% in organic for the first time in 2021, with expected certification in 2024.L&S (Apr 2023)
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2022 CHÂTEAU LE BOSCQ Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel Saint Estèphe
Release date: 11/5/2023
The 2022 Le Boscq is super-concentrated and yet also vibrant. Dark red/purplish fruit, cigar box, lavender, rose petal, licorice and pomegranate infuse the 2022 with notable depth. Yields were justThe 2022 Le Boscq is super-concentrated and yet also vibrant. Dark red/purplish fruit, cigar box, lavender, rose petal, licorice and pomegranate infuse the 2022 with notable depth. Yields were just 25 hectoliters per hectare after hail in June reduced the potential crop dramatically. This has real potential. Drinking range: 2025 - 2042 Rating: 90-93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2023)
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