Pauillac
This was a fortunate vintage for the two Ps – Pauillac and Pomerol. In 2023, the wettest recorded vintage for 25 years, Pauillac was mercifully spared a lot of the rainfall. This meant that mildew pressure was lower and grapes ripened easily.
These wines are classic Pauillacs. They are athletic, tensile, energetic – the aristocratic Pauillac of old, bolstered by modern wineries. As a region, it produced the most consistently excellent wines of the vintage
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L&S Recommendations
L&S 'best buy' recommendations are marked with this symbol .
2023 CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE BARON 2ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 4/6/2024
The 2023 Pichon Baron was picked September 12 until October 4 and matured in 70% new oak. Now, this is a conspicuous level up over the Les Griffons. Perhaps the quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon,The 2023 Pichon Baron was picked September 12 until October 4 and matured in 70% new oak. Now, this is a conspicuous level up over the Les Griffons. Perhaps the quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon, comprising 80% of the blend, exaggerates the difference between the two cuvées. It seems to gain intensity with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins that frame the graphite-infused black fruit. It’s very focused, fresh and quite sapid in the mouth, with a subtle strictness that codifies this as Pichon Baron. The 2023 is a quintessential Pauillac that will age gracefully over the next 30 or 40 years. It reminds me a little of the 2019. Classic "P.B." Drinking range: 2029 - 2060 Rating: 94-96 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 PICHON COMTESSE 'LA RÉSERVE'
Release date: 3/6/2024
The success of Pichon over recent years extends to its second wine also, and this delivers waves of cassis bud and red roses on the opening beats, followed up by vibrant raspberry and and blackberryThe success of Pichon over recent years extends to its second wine also, and this delivers waves of cassis bud and red roses on the opening beats, followed up by vibrant raspberry and and blackberry fruits, easier drinking than the powerhouse 2022. A vintage that sees 50 years of Pichon Comtesse Reserve (once known, of course, as Reserve de la Comtesse). 55% of the production, more than usual because they were focusing so much on Cabernet for the main wine. Nicolas Glumineau director. Drinking range: 2028 - 2040 Rating: 93 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU PICHON LALANDE 2ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 3/6/2024
The 2023 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was picked from September 6 until 29, with some rain on September 20 in the middle of Cabernet picking. But, Nicolas Glumineau remarked that theThe 2023 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was picked from September 6 until 29, with some rain on September 20 in the middle of Cabernet picking. But, Nicolas Glumineau remarked that the vineyard/fruit was in good condition; one day of rain did not affect the quality. The 2023 has a quintessential Comtesse bouquet, displaying pure and expressive black fruit laced with violet and graphite, delivered with impressive delineation. The palate is very refined on the entry. This is armed with beguiling symmetry—poised yet intense on the finish. It doesn’t exert huge grip because it knows it doesn't need to, and it fans out gloriously. Outstanding. Drinking range: 2029 - 2060 Rating: 96-98 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 LACOSTE BORIE du Château Grand Puy Lacoste Pauillac
Release date: 23/5/2024
Medium intensity ruby red, good grip and slightly old schol tannins, but this has real charm and juice, savoury and easy to drink, good Pauillac typicity. 42% new oak (reduced down from 50% over lastMedium intensity ruby red, good grip and slightly old schol tannins, but this has real charm and juice, savoury and easy to drink, good Pauillac typicity. 42% new oak (reduced down from 50% over last few years). Drinking range: 2029 - 2040 Rating: 91 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU GRAND PUY LACOSTE 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 23/5/2024
This takes 58% of the crop, and the blend is 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Merlot, with a yield of 48 hl/ha. The picking here started on September 11th, a few days later than many, finishing on theThis takes 58% of the crop, and the blend is 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Merlot, with a yield of 48 hl/ha. The picking here started on September 11th, a few days later than many, finishing on the 28th. Adorable aromatics here, with dark fruit wrapped in powdery and cedary oak, with layers of blackcurrant and damson, a much darker profile than I expected, touched with white peach and mint. This translates onto a palate of wild bramble, with a rich core of high-quality and powdery tannins which provide a charming grip, and with the fresh acidity of the vintage provides a fine layer of support for the fruit. Charming, with a relaxed medium-bodied texture, with a fine grip of tight, polished, velvety tannins, I can see this evolving well. It finishes long, with that deliciously ripe tannin gripping the finish, and a core of slowly fading fruit. Tasted twice. The alcohol is 13.2%. Rating: 92-94 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU HAUT BAGES LIBÉRAL 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 21/5/2024
This is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, the recently planted Petit Verdot not yet old enough to go into the blend. The yield was 53 hl/ha this year, remarkable for a biodynamicThis is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, the recently planted Petit Verdot not yet old enough to go into the blend. The yield was 53 hl/ha this year, remarkable for a biodynamic estate, and this takes about 60% of the crop. A dark and smoky nose, with perfumed currant and rose. This precedes a palate which is sinewy and bright, with a juicy and linear frame, with tense blackcurrant and cherry stone, rose and violet, supported by a delicious frame of tannins which add a mouth-watering grip in the middle, turning a little sappy in the finish. A rather elegant and fragrant style of Pauillac, a little Margaux-esque perhaps, with a dry grip for length. The alcohol is 13.5% on analysis. Rating: 90-92 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 ECHO de Lynch Bages Pauillac Château Lynch Bages
Release date: 14/5/2024
This is mainly young-vine fruit, and a higher proportion of Merlot at 55% of the total, reflecting a handsome Merlot yield, with 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. An immediately appealingThis is mainly young-vine fruit, and a higher proportion of Merlot at 55% of the total, reflecting a handsome Merlot yield, with 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. An immediately appealing nose, of black cherry, currant, blackcurrant ripple, toast and dark chocolate. This all comes across very well on the palate, which has an immediately pleasing texture, supple and polished, and is riven with tightly grained but certainly firm tannins. A juicy style but with lovely fruit and a touch of density, and the fresh acidity of the vintage, this is another smart second wine from the team at Lynch-Bages. I suspect it will need a year or three after the élevage to show its best. The alcohol is 13.6% on analysis. Rating: 90-92 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LYNCH BAGES 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 14/5/2024
Concentrated, intense and muscular, not a word that I have used very often in 2023 Bordeaux. You get a deeply-rooted tannic grip, with soot, squid ink, cassis, blackberry, bilberry, liqourice root,Concentrated, intense and muscular, not a word that I have used very often in 2023 Bordeaux. You get a deeply-rooted tannic grip, with soot, squid ink, cassis, blackberry, bilberry, liqourice root, slate scrap, pummice stone and mint. Lynch Bages seems to be wrought from a different place than it was a decade ago, impressive, powerful Pauillac, with an eye on long ageing. 75% new oak, Jean-Charles Cazes owner, Nicolas Labenne technical director. Drinking range: 2033 - 2048 Rating: 96 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU PÉDESCLAUX 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 7/5/2024
Vibrant violet reflections, great definition on the palate, with a streak of freshness from beginning to end, sculpted cassis and bilberry, crayon and graphite. Pedesclaux going from strength toVibrant violet reflections, great definition on the palate, with a streak of freshness from beginning to end, sculpted cassis and bilberry, crayon and graphite. Pedesclaux going from strength to strength under the new regime. Second vintage certified organic, 17 days of harvesting from September 13 through to October 4, 65% new oak for aging. Drinking range: 2030 - 2048 Rating: 94-100 L&S (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU D'ARMAILHAC 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 6/5/2024
The blend here is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 15% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The picking started on the 7th September, a common start date for many in Pauillac, finishing theThe blend here is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 15% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The picking started on the 7th September, a common start date for many in Pauillac, finishing the 30th. A savoury nose, dark and smoked, with notes of toasted oak, moss and cigar box, over some dark and savoury fruits reminiscent of dried cherry and even a touch of cranberry. An appealing palate, showing a juicy and coherent start to the fruit, with undercurrents of rich and ripe tannin, with a finely knit and powdery substance, along with fresh acidity, giving it the lift that defines the 2023 vintage, with layers of perfumed berries and cherries laid over the top. Charming, tense, with acid freshness but good balance, and it is grippy, this culminating in a core balanced fruit, grip and acids. Tasted twice, as usual the sample tasted at Mouton was the superior. Tasted twice. The alcohol is about 13.5%. Rating: 91-93 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 6/5/2024
This has a great finish, with blackcurrant, chocolate, hazelnut and salt undertones that run the length of the wine. Full-bodied and dense, and then it lifts off at the end. Chalky undertone, comingThis has a great finish, with blackcurrant, chocolate, hazelnut and salt undertones that run the length of the wine. Full-bodied and dense, and then it lifts off at the end. Chalky undertone, coming from the limestone terroir here. 72% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 6.5% cabernet franc, 1.5% carmenere and 1% petit verdot. Rating: 95-96 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 PETIT MOUTON Pauillac Château Mouton Rothschild
Release date: 6/5/2024
Lots of flesh and density in this excellent Petit-Mouton. Much of the Cabernet was picked in late September, giving it maximum maturity and black cherry freshness. Very elegant and everything inLots of flesh and density in this excellent Petit-Mouton. Much of the Cabernet was picked in late September, giving it maximum maturity and black cherry freshness. Very elegant and everything in harmony here. Terrific length too.L&S (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 1er Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 6/5/2024
A beautifully structured, toned Mouton. Very fine tannins and layers of soft black fruit. A really lovely 1st Growth, very correct and demonstrative of how their Cabernet has performed for them inA beautifully structured, toned Mouton. Very fine tannins and layers of soft black fruit. A really lovely 1st Growth, very correct and demonstrative of how their Cabernet has performed for them in 2023. L&S (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LYNCH MOUSSAS 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 2/5/2024
Lynch Moussas is classically one of the lighter-styled Pauillac classifieds, and its intensity in both colour and tannic architecture in this vintage reflects just how well this appellation has faredLynch Moussas is classically one of the lighter-styled Pauillac classifieds, and its intensity in both colour and tannic architecture in this vintage reflects just how well this appellation has fared in 2023. There is balance to the blackberry fruits set against tobacco leaf and liqourice, although the levels of ripeness are not as fully in evidence as with Batailley. But honestly, this small group of wines, under the ownership of Philippe Casteja, can be relied up for offering typicity and great quality at still-reasonable prices. 49hl/h yield. 58% new oak for ageing, 50% 1st wine. Drinking range: 2030 - 2045 Rating: 93-100 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU LAFITE 1er Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 2/5/2024
The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild races out of the glass with notable textural intensity. Explosive and deep, with striking balance, Lafite dazzles in this vintage. The 2023 is a somber, virile LafiteThe 2023 Lafite-Rothschild races out of the glass with notable textural intensity. Explosive and deep, with striking balance, Lafite dazzles in this vintage. The 2023 is a somber, virile Lafite endowed with remarkable depth and tons of sheer character. Plum, blackberry, gravel, pencil shavings, graphite, mocha and lavender build into the intense, palate-staining finish. The blend is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. Drinking range: 2023 - 2073 Rating: 95-98 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU DUHART MILON ROTHSCHILD 4ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 2/5/2024
The blend of the grand vin is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, picked between September 7th, a typical date for Pauillac, and finishing October 3rd. It is not too expressive on the nose, notThe blend of the grand vin is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, picked between September 7th, a typical date for Pauillac, and finishing October 3rd. It is not too expressive on the nose, not really out of the ordinary for this portfolio of wines at this stage, with lightly powdery fruit, raspberry and dark cherry, with traces of dark chocolate if you give it enough time (I think I did). The poise on the palate is typical of the vintage, with a restrained texture, savoury and taut, building a little in the midpalate (rare in this vintage) with a savoury core of dark cherry and dark chocolate fruits, gently expressed within a lightly mineral frame. A charming Duhart-Milon, in the slightly juicy and linear style of the vintage, but it has cohesion and drive from that acid core. The alcohol is 13%. Rating: 91-93 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CARRUADES DE CHÂTEAU LAFITE Pauillac
Release date: 2/5/2024
The 2023 Carruades de Lafite is notable for some of the Cabernet being picked prior to the Merlot, between September 7 and 29. This year, there is no Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot in the blend. ItThe 2023 Carruades de Lafite is notable for some of the Cabernet being picked prior to the Merlot, between September 7 and 29. This year, there is no Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot in the blend. It has a far superior bouquet to some of the vintages I was tasting a decade or so ago—much more purity and precision, with notes of black plum, wild strawberry and a touch of cassis. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky texture and a crisp line of acidity. It’s fresh, precise and saline, with a long tail on the finish. This is surely one of the best Carruades I have tasted at this stage. Drinking range: 2027 - 2047 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU PONTET CANET 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 30/4/2024
With the 2023 vintage, this estate has crafted a wine of unprecedented aromatic intensity and precision that marks a significant evolution. Revealing an elegant, fresh bouquet of mulberries andWith the 2023 vintage, this estate has crafted a wine of unprecedented aromatic intensity and precision that marks a significant evolution. Revealing an elegant, fresh bouquet of mulberries and cassis mingled with notions of violets, gentian and menthol, the 2023 Pontet-Canet is medium to full-bodied, seamless and multidimensional, with a pure and precise core of fruit that's framed by ultra-refined tannins and a powerful but controlled profile, concluding with long, mineral, licorice-inflected finish. It's the result of more daring harvest decisions than in previous years: By picking the Merlot earlier to highlight fresh, fruity notes rather than baked, sun-kissed flavors and simultaneously delaying the Cabernet Sauvignon harvest until after September 28 to refine tannins, the 2023 Pontet-Canet marks a significant evolution at this renowned estate. At this early stage, its élevage appears to be more discreet, too. This wine, which I'd be delighted to own, is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, matured in 50% new oak barrels, 35% amphorae and 15% once-used barrels. Drinking range: 2025 - 2055 Rating: 96-98 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
Release date: 29/4/2024
79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Good classical frame here. Upright and smartly 'claretty'. The nose is awash with deep plum, dark cherry flesh and intriguing scent of a fine79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Good classical frame here. Upright and smartly 'claretty'. The nose is awash with deep plum, dark cherry flesh and intriguing scent of a fine church. Subtly toasty wood. The palate follows - with density and a firmish feel to the cool dark berry fruit. This will need more time than some - but its all here for the future. Classical, pure and long. 57% new barrels, 43% in second-fill barrels.L&S (Apr 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU HAUT BATAILLEY 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac
The 2023 Haut-Batailley is another impressive wine from this Chateau. There's plenty of the typical dark fruit and overall breadth that is such a signature, but the tannins show greater finesse thanThe 2023 Haut-Batailley is another impressive wine from this Chateau. There's plenty of the typical dark fruit and overall breadth that is such a signature, but the tannins show greater finesse than in some prior years—a very positive evolution that continues here. Black cherry, plum, lavender, cloves, leather and licorice are all beautifully amplified. The 2023 marks another major step forward for Haut-Batailley. Drinking range: 2028 - 2043 Rating: 93-96 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
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2023 CHÂTEAU PIBRAN Cru Bourgeois Pauillac
Beautiful Pibran with very creamy tannins that are polished and integrated. Medium body. Refined and polished texture. Made mostly from vineyards in limestone soils. 54% cabernet sauvignon and 46%Beautiful Pibran with very creamy tannins that are polished and integrated. Medium body. Refined and polished texture. Made mostly from vineyards in limestone soils. 54% cabernet sauvignon and 46% merlot. Better than 2022. Rating: 93-94 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)
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